A hike through the Colca Canyon is definitely one of the highlights of your trip to Peru. It is the second deepest canyon in the world and is even deeper than the Grand Canyon in America. Life in the villages is wonderfully authentic and it seems like time has stood still here. The women all wear colorful traditional clothing and the men ride around on their horses. In this article, you will read everything you need to know if you want to visit the Colca Canyon independently. We also describe the hike we did, what you need to arrange for it, and some tips. We strongly recommend this hike to everyone because it is a beautiful trek that is not too difficult.
#1 Don’t choose a tour, go independently
From Arequipa, day trips depart every night at 03:00 to the Colca Canyon, but we strongly advise against this. First of all, it’s a shame to visit the Colca Canyon in just one day because you don’t have time to do a real trek and you only stop at viewpoints. Second, it’s a 6-hour drive there and 6 hours back. It’s a very tiring trip and you will visit the Colca Canyon in a rushed manner without really experiencing it. It’s much better to organize your hike independently and spend several days in the Colca Canyon. This way, you have all the time to enjoy the beautiful places and experience the culture of the small mountain villages in the Colca Canyon.
#2 Acclimate to the Altitude in Arequipa First
You may experience altitude sickness in the Colca Canyon. Most people who experience symptoms only suffer from mild headaches that can be alleviated with coca tea, aspirin, and a good night’s sleep. The highest villages are located at an altitude of around 3,600 meters (11,800 feet), so it’s a good idea to spend one or two nights in Arequipa before visiting the Colca Canyon to let your body adjust a bit.
#3 Choose from Different Hikes
The internet is full of different hiking routes, so it’s a good idea to decide which hike you want to do beforehand and book your accommodations in advance. There are day hikes as well as longer treks of up to five days for the most enthusiastic hikers. You may be overwhelmed by the number of options, so if you want a nice hike that strikes a balance, you can do the same hike we did, which we describe in #5. This is a really cool hike that allows you to experience the Colca Canyon without it being too strenuous. It’s still a fairly challenging hike and you can expect some sore muscles, but it’s doable without any experience or training.
Tip: No matter which hike you choose, download the maps.me app in advance and the map of Peru. This way, you’ll know exactly which turn to take at every intersection.
#4 How to travel from Arequipa to the Colca Canyon
The Colca Canyon is home to several villages from which you can embark on trekking adventures. Cabanaconde is the village where most of the treks start, including the one we took. It takes 6 hours by bus from Arequipa, and Andalucia is the bus company with a direct connection. A ticket to Cabanaconde costs about $5 and can be purchased at the bus station in Arequipa. In Cabanaconde, there are only a few hotels, among which Pachamama is certainly the best. You can store your backpack or suitcase here so that you only have to carry your daypack with the essentials for the hike.
Tip: You will likely arrive in Arequipa by bus, so it’s a good idea to purchase your bus tickets to Cabanaconde right away. This way, you won’t have to return to the bus station later, and you’ll be sure to have a spot. The bus departs for Cabanaconde on Mon through Thu at 01:00, 04:00, and 13:30.
#5 Our itinerary for the Colca Canyon
We did the trek from Cabanaconde to Llahuar. The starting point of this hike is Mirador Achachiwa, which is indicated on maps.me. From here, the route is very well marked with signs and it’s easy to follow. This is a one-day hike but with an overnight stay down in the Colca Canyon. The route is incredibly beautiful, and in about 5 hours, you descend 1,200 meters (4,000 feet) to the river at the bottom of the Colca Canyon. Along the way, you’ll hardly encounter anyone, and the views are phenomenal. All the photos in this article were taken during this hike. In Llahuar, you can enjoy the hot springs at Llahuar Lodge after a day of hiking. Here, you’ll spend the night in a simple cabin by the river (book in advance!). The next day, you’ll walk about 20 minutes to the bus stop at the top of the village. There, the bus will take you back to Cabanaconde. It’s ideal because after all that downhill trekking yesterday, you’re likely to have some muscle pain. In Cabanaconde, you can take the bus to Chivay, from where you can then take the bus to Arequipa.
Update: The bus from Llahuar to Cabanaconde only runs on Monday and Thursday at 03:00 and 18:00. Before COVID, the bus used to run daily, but this has been adjusted because there aren’t enough travelers now. Always check the departure times with the hotel. If you hear that the times have changed or that the bus is running more frequently again, please let us know so that we can adjust this. If your bus isn’t running, you can arrange a taxi with other travelers on site for 200 soles.
Tip: Start the hike around 8 am to beat the heat and bring at least 2 liters of water per person.
Day 1
11:00 AM Bus from Arequipa to Cabanaconde (see #4)
5:00 PM Arrival in Cabanaconde and stay at Pachamama
Day 2
6:30 AM Breakfast
7:00 AM Optional: Visit Cruz del Condor viewpoint to spot condors (see #6)
8:00 AM Start trekking from Cabanaconde to Llahuar (see #5)
1:00 PM Arrival at Llahuar Lodge
1:30 PM Lunch and enjoy the hot springs
Day 3 / Day 4
2:45 AM or 5:45 PM Walk to bus stop
3:00 AM or 6:00 PM Bus to Cabanaconde or take a taxi if the bus is not available (200 soles)
5:30 AM Pick up baggage at Pachamama or stay another night at Pachamama until 8:30 PM
On the same day or a day later, take the bus from Cabanaconde to Chivay and then take the bus to Cusco.
#6 Optional: Spot Condors at Cruz del Condor viewpoint
Located 13 kilometers (8 miles) outside Cabanaconde, the Cruz del Condor viewpoint is where you can spot giant condors. These massive birds have a wingspan of up to 3 meters (10 feet), and this is one of the best places in the world to see them. You can visit here before the hike, and transportation can be arranged at the hotel, which is about a 20-minute drive away. Don’t stay too long because it gets hot quickly, and you don’t want to hike during the hottest part of the day.
#7 Packing list for the Colca Canyon
For the hike, you only need to bring a daypack. You can leave your backpack or suitcase at the hotel and pick it up later. It’s usually very hot in the Colca Canyon during the day, but it can get chilly at night, so layers are very helpful. You can find below what else you need to bring.
- Daypack
- Hiking boots
- Two liters of water per person
- Snacks
- Hat or cap
- Sunscreen
- Sunglasses
- Clothes for warm and cold weather
- Swimwear
- Rain jacket or poncho
- Flashlight / headlamp or a fully charged phone
- Towel (can also be requested at the hotel)
- Shampoo
- Cash
#8 The entrance to the Colca Canyon
The entrance fee for the Colca Canyon is 70 soles, which is around $19. The entrance ticket is valid for one week. You don’t need to get the ticket beforehand, as you can start the trekking without it. Someone will ask you for your ticket along the way, and if you don’t have it, you can buy it from them. It might sound like a scam, but that’s really how it works in the Colca Canyon.
#9 Traveling to Cusco with 4M Express or taxi
The trip from the Colca Canyon to Cusco is a long journey of about 9 hours, including a few beautiful stops. There is only one bus company that has a direct connection, and that is 4M express. This ride is quite expensive, at $75 per person, but it’s by far the fastest and most comfortable option. There will be a guide on board who will talk about the region, and you will stop along the way at viewpoints, a restaurant, and an alpaca farm. The bus departs from Chivay, so it’s wise to stay there the night before, as the bus leaves at 07:00. You can reserve your bus ticket online. Another option is to take a taxi. You can share it with 8 people and it costs around $325. You can arrange this with Pachamama.
Note: The 4M express only runs on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday but for the other days Pachamama is offering shared transport. Inform about this when you check in.
#10 Book your hotels in advance
It is best to book your stay at Pachamama in Cabanaconde and Llahuar Lodge in Llahuar as early as possible. Pachamama is by far the best choice in Cabanaconde, and you definitely want to stay at Llahuar Lodge for the hot springs and unique location. Both are affordable but very popular. In Chivay, you have more hotel options, so you don’t have to book as early. Hotel Rumi Wasi is a nice place to stay in Chivay.
  Pachamama |
  Llahuar Lodge |
  Rumi Wasi |
