Welcome to Fez, the oldest imperial city in Morocco! As soon as you enter the medina of Fez, you’ll feel like you’re in a fairy tale. Narrow alleyways lead you deeper into the heart of the medina, and getting lost is almost inevitable. The medina of Fez is the largest in the world, and around every corner, you’ll discover something beautiful and unique. You’ll often have to make way for donkeys or horses that also use the narrow streets. You’ll find yourself in a completely different world. Welcome to Africa! We have created a mini travel guide full of tips for this extraordinary city, so you can dive into the “One Thousand and One Nights” fairy tale in Fez fully prepared.
Get Lost in the Old Medina
We’ll start with the most obvious activity: wandering through the fascinating medina of Fez. It’s hard to resist when you’re in Fez. You can wander endlessly, shop, and take photos. Everything here is so photogenic! It’s good to know that Talaa Seghira and Talaa Kebira are the two main streets in the medina. These streets are easily recognizable because they are slightly wider and busier than the alleys. Most of the shops and restaurants can be found on these streets. It’s very helpful to have an idea of where they are located to navigate the medina.
Tip: People, especially young individuals, often offer to show you the way in the medina. If you accept their offer or don’t clearly express that you don’t want their assistance, they may accompany you and then ask for money afterwards. This can become bothersome if they demand more money than you are willing to give. Therefore, clearly state that you don’t want their help. If you do want assistance, negotiate a price in advance, typically around 5 to 10 dirhams depending on the distance.
Visit the Largest Tannery in Africa
Have you ever wondered what goes into making your leather jacket, bag, or shoes? At the tannery in Fez, you can witness this process with your own eyes and nose. Here, you’ll see how they clean, process, and dye the hides of cows, sheep, and goats. It’s an impressive process that can be quite smelly.
There are three different tanneries in Fez, but Chouara Tannery is the largest one. Surrounding the tanneries, you’ll find many shops selling inexpensive leather bags, jackets, poufs, and shoes. Many of these shops also have a viewpoint where you can observe the tannery. However, there are stories of people feeling obliged to buy an expensive bag or jacket after their visit. Therefore, make it clear in advance if you don’t want to make a purchase and only intend to observe the tannery. If the owner agrees to this, you can proceed on your way. When leaving, it’s customary to pay around 10 dirhams per person for the tannery viewing. Don’t let any of the boys hanging around take you to a viewpoint as they will demand payment.
Tip: The best view can be found at shop #10, which you can recognize by the black sign on the wall with the number 10 written on it. In the navigation app “maps.me,” you can find the location by searching for “Terrace view at #10.”
Admire the Beautiful Quranic Schools
The Al-Attarine Medersa and Bou Inania Medersa are among the most photographed places in Fez. These beautiful Quranic schools are adorned with exquisite mosaics and other intricate details, such as wood carvings. Moreover, these are some of the few religious buildings that non-Muslims are allowed to visit. Both were constructed in the 14th century and are absolutely magnificent! If you arrive here early in the morning, there won’t be many people yet. We arrived at the door of Bou Inania Medersa at 8 o’clock in the morning and had the place all to ourselves for at least 15 minutes. Later in the day, it gets incredibly crowded.
Discover the Tastiest Snacks
If there’s one place in the world where you have a wide variety of sweet treats to choose from, it’s Morocco. As you walk through the main streets of the medina, you’ll come across stalls with dozens of different kinds of delicacies. Buy a selection of different treats, and you’ll quickly discover your favorite. It’s also fun to score some inexpensive spices to use for cooking at home. You’ll find shops selling heaps of spices in the main streets of the medina.
Walk through the Bab Bou Jeloud Gate, the Front Door of the Medina
This giant gate was built in 1913 and is also known as the “front door of the medina.” The French created a gap in the city wall and then built Bab Bou Jeloud. You’ll find many restaurants and shops around the gate.
Tip: Clock Cafe has a cozy rooftop terrace where you can enjoy a drink.
Watch the Sunset at the Marinid Tombs
Time to escape the bustling medina for a while. From Bab Bou Jeloud, it’s about a 25-minute walk to the Marinid Tombs ruins. From here, you’ll have an amazing view of Fez, especially when the sky turns shades of orange and pink during sunset.
Combine Fez with the Blue City of Chefchaouen
Whether you’re on a road trip through Morocco or just visiting Fez for a city trip, Chefchaouen is a must-see! Chefchaouen is a town located in the Rif Mountains and is the most photogenic town in all of Africa. The old medina is entirely painted blue and white, creating a labyrinth of narrow alleys adorned with colorful decorations. The atmosphere and feeling of walking through these streets are completely different from Fez, which makes it even more enjoyable! We recommend staying for one or two nights because in the morning, before the day-trippers arrive, it’s wonderfully peaceful, and the sunset is fantastic. If you don’t have time to stay overnight, then this day tour is ideal. However, keep in mind that it can be quite crowded. Chefchaouen is about a three-hour drive from Fez. Curious about what to do there? Read our tips for Chefchaouen.
Where to Stay in Fez?
When staying in Fez, it’s best to choose accommodation in the medina. The medina is almost entirely car-free, and all the attractions are within walking distance. You’ll find hotels throughout the medina, but we strongly recommend staying near the main streets of Talaa Seghira and Talaa Kebira. Here, you’ll find most of the attractions and restaurants. From our experience, if you stay deeper within the medina, you’ll often get lost because the alleys are narrower, there are fewer landmarks, and your GPS might not work properly. Finding your way can be challenging, and you’ll likely have to accept help from potentially shady individuals who will guide you to your hotel and ask for money. As mentioned above, this can lead to unpleasant situations and unnecessary expenses. Especially at night, you might feel uncomfortable in the narrow alleys.
Our Favorite Riads in Fez
To make your visit to Fez truly complete, consider staying in a beautiful riad. A riad is a typical Moroccan accommodation with a charming courtyard and an idyllic rooftop terrace. Riads were originally the homes of wealthy Moroccan families, but nowadays, most of them have been transformed into hotels. Staying in a riad allows you to retreat from the hustle and bustle of the medina during your stay in Fez.
Hotel & Spa Dar Bensouda is one of the most beautiful riads in Fez. It features a relatively large pool (by Moroccan standards), a delightful rooftop terrace, and beautifully decorated double rooms. Another gem in Fez is Riad Dar lline. Its floors, walls, and even the ceiling are adorned with paintings, mosaic, and woodwork. You’ll be amazed by the intricate details! The courtyard is beautiful, and the rooftop terrace offers a great view. If you have a smaller budget, Riad Haj Palace & Spa is a perfect option.
Tip: These hotels are located on the main street or just a few minutes’ walk away.
  Hotel & Spa Dar Bensouda
|
  Riad Dar lline
|
  Riad Haj Palace & Spa
|
